Our seasonal abstract of issues I’ve seen and appreciated rolls round once more, and as ever is an effective mechanism to reply questions on new merchandise from established manufacturers, such because the Metropolis Moc from Saman Amel (above).
However it’s additionally, by design, a mixture of the previous and the brand new, so there are each the anticipated names of Rubato and Drake’s, in addition to the less-discussed Buck Mason or Novesta.
I hope you discover one thing for you. All questions within the feedback please, to be fortunately and completely answered.
Buck Mason Rambler suede jacket
$698
My measurement: Giant (measurement up)
I met the Buck Mason guys at Pitti final January, and Lucas and I each tried a number of merchandise. I’ve to say we had been each impressed by the worth/high quality ratio. This isn’t a Japanese model making the best replica high quality, nevertheless it’s additionally half the worth and most issues had been nicely achieved.
I used to be significantly impressed by the suede ‘Rambler’ trucker jacket. As I commented in the piece on Massimo Dutti, leather-based and suede aren’t a straightforward factor to do at a lower cost, and I even have an authentic ‘large E’ Levi’s one, so might examine first hand.
You positively lose one thing by not going for these top-end Japanese manufacturers, but when that’s out of your worth vary Buck Mason are an excellent possibility, and examine very favourably with somebody like RRL.
£305
My measurement: Medium (regular measurement)
Staying with the Americana theme, a number of readers requested about this new mannequin from Rubato – their model of a western shirt, in black, white and indigo. I attempted the black, and it’s precisely what you count on from Rubato – nice high quality with delicate model.
The benchmark for a lot of might be the Sawtooth Westerner from Bryceland’s, which I even have, and that is lighter in weight, in addition to dialling down a few of the western components – one snap on the pockets, two on the cuff. I’d say it’s an important alternative for anybody that finds the heavier Sawtooth slightly an excessive amount of. My black can be fading properly after a few washes.
My measurement: 44 (measurement up)
My favorite trainers have lengthy been a collaboration between Mizuno and Margaret Howell, and readers typically ask what else I’d suggest, as these are solely in black or white and never all the time obtainable.
The Marathon from Novesta is an effective one – slim, delicate and properly made. Trunk had them beforehand in bolder colors, however the present gray and beige are extra versatile and I ended up getting the beige. It’s an important color mixture, significantly the black across the edges.
Not all sizes are presently obtainable at Trunk, however there are many different colors and sizes obtainable on the Novesta website and thru locations like Finish.
New & Lingwood band-collar shirt
£155
My measurement: Medium (regular measurement)
I’ve been actually desirous about how New & Lingwood have developed over the previous couple of years. They’re doing extra tailoring, extra subtle supplies, and extra basic menswear, maybe within the course of filling a few of the hole left by manufacturers like Drake’s going extra informal. It is simple to neglect, for instance, that till not too long ago they solely did silk robes, however now supply cashmere, linen seersucker; the tailoring has expanded in the identical means.
Over the winter I picked up a raglan coat from them in a very sturdy however tasteful verify, for instance, which is the sort of factor you not often see anyplace else today – conventional outfitters do not have the identical style stage and fashionable ones are too modern and secure.
The present New & Lingwood assortment has some good linen fits – in simply the proper shade of darkish brown or darkish inexperienced – wearable colors of towelling shirts, and nice linen shirts. I’ve been after a linen band-collar one for some time, in addition to a plain spread-collar silk, they usually had each.
Drake’s cotton-twill Video games Blazer
£795
My measurement: 40 (regular measurement)
Talking of Drake’s, they not too long ago restocked the Video games Blazer within the cottons I missed out on final yr, after I acquired my corduroy. Each the cotton twill and canvas are beautiful, mechanically cleanable and certainly fading nicely when washed.
I get a whole lot of questions from readers about the place they will get a less expensive model of the Video games Blazer, and also you simply can’t, until you go for a bog-standard chore coat. What units the Video games aside is design and sometimes supplies, and that’s one thing most different manufacturers don’t put right into a chore. The supplies are the identical ones from the identical bunches, and the design is simply straight up-and-down.
The Drake’s is certainly costly, however to my thoughts design-led manufacturers like this justify their worth after they set themselves aside in these two areas.
Saman Amel Metropolis Moc (and Quoddy/Beige)
€600
My measurement: 43 (regular measurement) within the Saman and 10 US (measurement up) within the Quoddy
I noticed these on the latest Saman Amel trunk present, simply earlier than they had been because of go on sale, and was fairly excited. There’s an actual hole there – a shoe that’s nearly as snug as a coach, however nearly as sensible as a idler, and naturally fashionable.
They regarded actually good on Dag and Dom with their fits and I appreciated the modern, elevated design. They didn’t work on me in the identical means (with tailoring) I feel as a result of each of the fellows like their trousers huge and the sneakers regarded nice simply poking out of their hems. However as a shoe to put on with one thing extra sensible/informal or informal/stylish – like sensible chinos and a cashmere knit – I feel they’d be nice. It is one thing I will attempt once more when the brand new showroom opens (on Albemarle Road) in June.
I additionally not too long ago tried the boat sneakers that Beige in Paris is doing as a collaboration with Quoddy. These are chunkier and never as luxe, however as with Saman the black possibility is absolutely fascinating – it takes away all attainable old-mannish associations. The Beige guys have additionally made some delicate however efficient selections, reminiscent of placing silver {hardware} on the black leather-based, slightly than gold, and white stitching slightly than yellow.
Silver Ostrich ostrich-leather belt
€440
My measurement: 90 (regular measurement)
I’ve by no means really written about Silver Ostrich, though I’ve had their belts for some time. A lot of the types are slightly a lot for me, and my brown-suede ‘Versailles’ (beneath) is one thing I put on solely after I desire a specific look (and 20 occasions lower than my Rubato in the identical materials).
However my latest, nice discovery was that the brown ostrich-leather (above) is definitely simpler to put on than plain suede, and ages very properly. The sample is sort of delicate and diversified, but additionally not the usual suede, leather-based or croc. I’ve it in the Amboise model and now put on it slightly greater than my suede, principally with denims. Sadly the actual fact it’s an unique makes it a stage costlier.
